Going to the beach is such a stress reliever because it's so different from everything else. I mean, we spend all year with shoes on our feet, sticking to a schedule, being surrounded by buildings and constant noise but you go to the beach and don't wear shoes and don't wear a watch and spend four hours in the water at a time with your board and there's no buildings and then you get out of the water and collapse on the sand listening to the waves pounding (that sounds like a holiday ad doesn't it - maybe I should follow that career path in life). I love falling asleep at night being absolutely exhausted from having been pounded by the waves and the physical effort that it that it takes to surf, and for me, I don't get that feeling from anything else.
I love all of the extras that come with surfing too; I love the long days and even better, the long evenings, I love the way the sand starts to cool at about 7pm, I love the other people that love to surf, I love the smell of surfboard wax, I love my wetsuit, the weird bikini tan and I love the salt water, but mostly, I love the way that surfing makes me feel because there's no better feeling possible. It is probably the most freeing thing that you can do and to spend hours in the water with just you and the board with no other worries, but just the complete focus of catching waves is like nothing else. The sea really does set you free.
Paddling out and sitting out back waiting for sets is one of my favourite things ever - apart from that moment when you stand up and you get that rush of adrenaline surge through your body. Whether the ocean is flat and you just sit bobbing on the surface or whether the waves are pumping and you're sitting there trying to get the guts to catch a 20 foot wave (after catching ones like that, I'll tell you, I'll catch anything), that's when the love for the sport (how cringe) really kicks in.
Ah writing this makes me even sadder that I'm not even going to be putting on a bikini this year. I CAN'T BELIEVE I'M NOT GOING SURFING HOW HEARTBREAKING.
I might get my wetsuit out and just sit in it. Whilst doing shaka's. Yeah I might do that.
Although I'm going to try my hardest to sneak a few days surfing in somewhere because I can't wait for another year, that's just too long............ and the summer of twitchiness begins.
But the one thing that I can wear this summer is board shorts and man I can't wait to wear them again.
Summer is so my season.